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Data sourced from the U.S. Dept. of Energy, Energy Star, and the EIA.

Smart Plugs and Phantom Load: What You Can Actually Save

By TrimWatt Editorial Teamwho we areNot yet independently reviewed — how we reviewPublished July 22, 2026Figures last verified July 22, 2026
6 min read
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Standby draw is real but modest — typically a small single-digit percentage of a household bill. Smart plugs pay off on a handful of genuinely idle, higher-draw devices, not on phone chargers.

Standby load is the easiest energy-saving story to tell and one of the easiest to overstate. It's genuinely worth addressing — just not first, and not everywhere.

What standby load actually is

Devices that appear off often aren't: they're waiting for a remote, keeping a clock, holding a network connection, or charging an internal battery. Individually the draw is small. Across thirty devices running every hour of the year, it adds up to a modest but consistent share of the bill.

Where a smart plug earns its place

  • An entertainment cluster — television, console, soundbar, streaming box — idle overnight and during the working day.
  • A desktop workstation with monitors, dock, printer, and speakers.
  • Garage or workshop equipment used a few times a month.
  • Seasonal loads that otherwise sit powered year-round.
Measure before you buy
An inexpensive plug-in energy meter tells you, in an evening, which devices actually draw meaningful standby power in your home. That beats guessing from a list — including this one.

Where it doesn't work

DeviceWhy not
Phone and laptop chargersModern chargers draw very little when idle; the plug may use as much
Router and modemCutting power drops the network and recovery is slow
DVR / set-top boxesScheduled recordings and guide updates fail
Refrigerators and freezersNever — this is not a standby load
Anything with a clock you rely onYou'll reset it repeatedly and stop bothering
Devices where cutting standby power costs more than it saves, in money or in annoyance.

Putting a number on it

Use the same arithmetic as any other appliance: watts ÷ 1,000 × hours × your rate. A cluster drawing 20W continuously is 175 kWh a year — meaningful at a high rate, marginal at a low one. That's the honest scale of this opportunity.

What to do next

Borrow or buy a plug-in meter and check five suspects: the TV area, the computer setup, the garage, the kitchen counter appliances, and anything with a permanent standby light. Put smart plugs only where the measurement justifies it, and spend the rest of your attention on heating, cooling, and hot water.

What these numbers assume — and where they stop

Assumptions

  • Standby (vampire) load refers to power drawn while a device is off or idle but still plugged in.
  • A smart plug itself draws a small amount of standby power, which offsets part of the saving.
  • Savings are calculated from measured watts × hours × your rate, not from generic claims.

Limitations

  • Modern devices are far better at standby than older ones, so blanket advice from a decade ago overstates the opportunity.
  • Cutting power to some devices causes problems — DVRs miss recordings, some appliances reset, networking gear takes time to recover.
  • Without a plug-in meter you're guessing at which devices are worth targeting.

Sources

Frequently asked questions

How much does phantom load cost per year?

It varies by household, but it's typically a small single-digit percentage of the electricity bill — real money over a year, but far less than heating, cooling, or water heating.

Which devices are worth putting on a smart plug?

Ones that are genuinely idle for long stretches and draw more than a trickle: entertainment centres, desktop setups with monitors and peripherals, garage or basement equipment, and seasonal items.

Do smart plugs use electricity themselves?

Yes, a small amount continuously to stay connected to Wi-Fi. On a device with very low standby draw, the plug can cancel out most of the benefit.

Run the numbers yourself

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